The south face of Telendos, from the place where the boat drop you!

To go to ”Wings for life”: 20mn, “Wild country” 25-30mn and “Inspiration”: 30mn

Below: at the very right cave in Inspiration, Simon is climbing a nice 6b+ before to bolt it.

Below: The vew from the ridge…

The sector Inspiration:

This fall I’ve start to equipe a new area in Telendos, close to the multi pitch I have opened. Look at those pictures!

Thanks to all the people that helped me to buy the bolts and guived me material to do the work!

This year, thanks to you I could buy about 900e of bolts! 

A big thanks also to Yanis from the Rita’s restaurant in Telendos for providing me all these bolts and beautifull belays! Top quality!

A new multi-pitch in Telendos:

“Inspiration” 7a+ max, 6c obl, 150m

On steep rock from end to end (du début à la fin?). It’s next
to an amazing arche at 100 metres above the ground. The view is fantastic!

The rock is excellent quality and well equipped.

L1 6b+ , L2 6c , L3 7a+ a climb in the style of DNA ! L4 6b,
L5 6b+

Conditions and material: Avoid humid days. The
route is in shade until 1pm. 16QD, helmet, slings and carabiners for the belay.

Approach: Take the path going to
Princess canyon, turn right 10 meters after the second door and follow the
yellow paint until the bottom of the crag. (45mn) The path is good, it’s a nice
walk.

To return to the village: When you are on the top
of the wall, go right towards Masouri (15mn). At the cross, turn right and walk
down following the yellow marks. (30 minutes to the village)

Thanks to Johannes Janz for providing me all the bolts for
this project!

Kalymnos Climbing Festival coming soon!

18-22 May 2011

For a 4th edition, Kalymnos invites climbers from all around the world and all level to participate to the Kalymnos Climbing Festival.

The program this year: Presentation of Patxi Usobiaga, Nicolas Favresse, Lynn Hill, and the Kalymnos guidebook (new edition, 2010) by Aris Theodoropoulos, the author.

The climbers will have the oportunity to climb side-by-side with the 3 stars, to collect gift coupons in a treasure hunt at the bottom of the crags and to participate to the boulder contest and the photo contest.

The new routes:

Between Afternoon and Grande-Grotta:

Simon Montmory try Zenith 8b+: To see the video : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sm1vK9CvguY

This year, I was very lucky to equip Zenith, probably one of my best route ever.

This 40m 8b+ is more than incredible from all points of view in this grade.

Alex Honold did the FA this winter, bravo to him, specially with the big run out before the chain (6-7m)  as I did’nt put a bolt yet! Whatch down when you will climb it to see the nice feeling!

In Ivory Tower:

I began my year of drilling with 2 obvious lines in Ivory Tower, 40m and about 7c+.

It goes between the two colors brown and white-blue with a pure verticality, like cut with a knife! I named this two routes “Sunrise” and “Café”, because of the Sunrise Café in Massouri that gives me the bolts to do it. 

In Yanis sector:

-“Adolf in the bay” extension: 7c 38m

-”To Manna”: 7b+ with 7c+ extension = 38m

  In Arhi:

 I’ve just finish to equip 9 new routes from the 6b+ to the project, all are very obvious lines!

Look at these pictures: From the left to the right:

 -ext of “Kotopoula”: 7c 40m A great pitch, stay dry eaven after very big rains as “The under clinks”!

-Ext of Ziwi left “Discoloziwi” : 8a 38m: Amazing! Very original with olmost only under clinks!

-ext of Ziwi right “Evkoloziwi”: 7a+ 35m

-“The under clinks” 6c+ 37m A very interesting and unusual route from the point of view of the rock and the technique!

-Galopoula: L1: 6b +, L2: 7b+

- Megalakotopoula: 7b+, Project: Some better foot than “Zenith” but with sloper-edges and mad dynamic moovs…A start like “Gora-gutarak 8c+ in Odyssey…” 

-“Orgasme Minera Extension” variation: “Little Yosemite” 8a/+ 40m. More straight than the oldest variation, you go to the very top on white rock with a crack climbing style! Just enought to reach the ground with the 8om rope and with the draws in the route. 

-Alcionides Meres 8? A big roof at 50º with a very hard bouldery problem. Pumpy!

-“Ne pas toucher ma bitte” extension : Project  : It`s mad…

 To order the new book: http://climbkalymnos.com/?page_id=2626

 The next crags and new routes:

 With the help of many people, I could buy more than 900€ of Inox bolt. These bolts are still waiting to be used to equip an all sector with grades between the 5b to the 7b! This sector will be really extraordinary for its rock, full of stalactites and holes to belay! ( A little bit like the Panorama sector)

Many thanks to all of you that help me to develop climbing in Kalymnos!  

 The re-bolting:

 With Aris Theodoropoulos, the author of the climbing guide book of Kalymnos, we worked 3 weeks to change rusty bolts and bad belays. It is very good for the island and these routes are very safe now.

Claude Idoux a local French climber now retired and Luca Salsotto an Italian mountain guide help us for some of them. These two guys are equipping lot of routes in Kalymnos as well!

Crescendo sector:                       

This sector will be one of the most impressive one of Kalymnos-Telendos!!

With the shade untill 2 PM, then from 5PM to the night, it will be a great place to climb from potential 6a’s to 8a’s.

It’s perfect to go early with the boat (20mn of walk) or by foot (45mn) and to enjoy the different sector the all day long, playing with the shade: Princess Canyon and Chrystal Cave.

Aproach: 2mn after the “Wings for life” start, to folow the paint on the rock!

Helmet is necessary: It’s a new sector!

  Crescendo sector is the huge cave in the midle of this face. 

Chrystal Cave  is on the left of it.

Snow White sector:                                                                         

At 10mn from the village, this little crag have some nice routes in grades the 4b to the 7a. Some routes are very nice, you should have a try!

If the routes are short, it’s enought for a small afernoon after the sieste time. Well equipe for the beginers and easy aproach for kids!  Shade after 4 PM! 

Other crags:

The best is to go to the Gaetan Raymond blog: http://gaetanmontange.spaces.live.com/

It’s in french but it will give you an exellent idée about this sectors and routes. His pictures also show very well the beautiful Telendos island where you can rent superp rooms for the same prices than Kalymnos!

Have look!

There is now 3 main sectors for psychobloc in Kalymnos. If it’s not as good as in Majorca in Spain, it’s not crowded and you don’t have to wait for a line.The crags are very safe and the rock is very clean. There is climbs from the F6a to potential F8. They are no gelly-fishes. It’s the perfect choice when the weather is to hot and to much damp.

In Kantouni:  New!

Beautiful grey rock, it will remind you the Odyssey sectore. You can go with a boat or by foot from the main path to go in Saint Photis  ( access under construction, will need ropes to rich the crags) From the grade 5 to the 7c? 15 to 20m hight. Protect from the south wind.

   Deep water solo in Kantouni…

Like you were climbing in Odyssey but without any ropes! Here in a 6c+…

The beautifuls crags of Kantouni.

At the very end of the island: New!

Just before Leros, you need a boat to go there. It’s a very  beautiful orange, red and white rock with some stalactites. Protect from the north wind. More than 20m hight. All levels of climb, and some possible grades 8.

From the grades 6a to the grades 8, everibody can enjoy it!

In Vathy:

! If you can go in Vathy any days, the sea have to be realy oily for the 2 other spots !

The well know sector is very good for dyscovering deep water solo and very nice to enjoy the place and the coffees in the harbour. It’s a good test before to try the other adventurous spots. From the grade 5 to the F8b. 

You can rent boats for 5 persons: 100e, or for 4: 75e for the half day. You don’t need a licence to drive it.

To rent a boat:     (+30) 69 34 1000 53 or (+30) 69 464 59 159

-Take some water glasses to check the deepness of the water,

-STAY FAR AWAY FROM THE ROCK WITH THE BOAT: Jump in the water and swim, if not you could damage the boat very easily!

-ALWAYS one person have to stay in the boat,

-Be sure that the lifes jacket are close and be ready to jump or to throw the lifebuoy to help your friend,

-Don’t forget solar cream and a good hat for the boat. A taw can be usefull,

-In case of problem, you can call the owner of the boat, he will know what to do.

Watch on you tube the video of  Neil Gresham attempting an unclimbed 8b deep water solo in Vathy!

The Kalymnos-Telendos island are endowing with some incredible virgin crags. Thanks to our very active equipors team, we can enjoy each years those new routes. You will find here a parcel of our futur climbing garden…

This cave close to the sector Arhi is already equiped with 2 routes:  A  potential F8c(+) and a F7c(+) There is a potential for 4 others grades 8 in the cave.

On the left and on the right of this cave around 6 new grades F6 could be made.

Aproach: 15-20mn

Kalydna sector: 5 new grades 8 + 3 between 6c and 7c? Whaaarhhh Watch that wall!! My next project! The orange line will be a 60m route, full gaz, full colors…

 Verry soon, one of the most beautifull and impressive overhang in the world…I can’t wait to equipe it!!

Weiterlesen–>

The crags of Telendos:

Telendos is a very nice place where to spend quiet holidays far from any motors and noises…It’s a perfect place to stay with your familly. You can rent a room from 25 euros per night! There are routes  for all level and you can stay there for a good 2 weeks of climbing… It’s more quiet than Kalymnos and you will really feel the wilderness there. 

Don’t forget to stop for a drink in the village before or after climbing. You can find also very nices restaurant with traditional and fresh see food!

 But let’s talk about the sectors: 

 Sector Glaros: 

 4 project wait for you + one of the best 7a+ and 7c(+) you can find in our island !!  This 45 degres roof is a realy incredible place. Routes from the grade F5b to the 9a project??…More info and pictures soon.  North Face, very good for the warms but windy days. (if it’s not windy, it will be damp) 

Here, Simon Montmory in “Glaros”, a fantastique 8a+/b! Photo: Dominik Hartman

Sector Eros:

This fantastique sectore is great for it’s routes from the 6c+ to the 8a, 35m, climbing on big jugs with long reachs!

Sectore Pescatore:

Pescatore is a perfect sector for the warm days. It’s very good to go there for the shade and to climb some routes in an other style than Irox. It’s the perfect continuation after climbing in Irox or in Eros sector.  

Above left: Simon answering a call in a F7a and on the right, Quentin Chastagnier in ”Queen Potha” F8a+/b . A beautifull route with a very interesting boulder problem. He did the FA  at the second go.  Photos: Nikos Smalios

Secor Chrystal Cave:

Unbelievable!! This place must be in your world climbing priority! South face. More info on http://gaetanmontange.spaces.live.com

Sector Princess Canyon: 

A wonderful place equiped by Claude Idoux a local french climber, very wild with an incredible rock. Routes from the F6a to the F7a. South face.

 Sector Snow white:

A familly sector, at 10mn walking from the village. Very good if you feel lazy and just have few ours…11 routes from the 4b to the 7b(Sharp) Some nices 6a/b with closed bolts.

More information in the new 2010 Kalymnos guide book.

 Hikes:

-You can visit the old village of Telendos (Ruins)

-To go to the top of the island (458m) there is an incredible view of Kalymnos and the Turkish coast… 

-To go to Princess Canyon: If we can climb in that place, it’s a realy incredible and wilde place that you won’t forget. For good walkers.

History:

Thousands years old ruins are all around the village: Early christian baths and cemetery, temples…